Deploying with Alpha 3 on the Macho Trek on foot, Natalie marched straight out of Field Base and into the Never Never with 15 participants and staff. It soon became apparent that the only way was up. Five days of gruelling climbing with fully loaded packs ensued. Along the way the team successfully forded several rivers and were only defeated by one. This forced an early camp behind schedule on the first day.
Once happily back on track and trekking through spectacular scenery and panoramic views, a night of torrential rain was spent camping under a lonely pylon in the jungle. Channels were dug around the tents and the group huddled and commiserated each other under an expertly erected tarp.
The next day the team arrived at the highest point of the trek, Cerro Chonta at 2800 metres, tired but exhilarated and proud. A night under the roof of the Ranger Station at La Esperanza followed, where the group were met by Bravo 1, Ed, Liane, and a supply of foot tape and chocolate. Each team member felt they had hit the jackpot with a shower, a real flushing toilet and the chance to wash and dry one outfit each!
The next morning, we bid Alpha 3 a fond farewell as they left to march onwards and upwards. Hitting the Interamerican highway, we headed for Piedras Blancas National Park, to visit Alpha 5 at El Bonito Ranger Station.
Finding them was an interesting experience. Our instructions were: check with the rangers in La Gamba if it is possible to drive up the river (it was), continue to New Zealand, turn right into the water, drive for 2.8km and take the left hand fork where the river splits.
Good old Bravo 1 delivered the goods and we soon stumbled across Alpha 5, snoring in hammocks in somewhat sweltering conditions. It wasn’t all rest and relaxation though. They’d been hard at it, and we were most impressed by the geometrically constructed spiral basher bed formation (although on hearing rumours of a 2 per night rate of collapse we opted to sleep in the Ranger’s accommodation), and the culinary skills of those participants who had never before set foot in a kitchen. When asked whether we understood porridge, we had to giggle.

We spent 2 days with Alpha 5, who are making remarkable progress digging trenches and shifting rocks to protect the Ranger Station from destruction by the river. We were lucky enough to accompany half of the group on a Ranger led night hike, on which we saw baby crocs and perhaps one too many fer de lances (small and delicate but deadly snakes).
Although it was tempting to stay longer, we had to respond to the rumbling tummies of Alpha 1 on the Corcovado Trek. With their food drop safely in the back of Bravo 1, we headed to Clavera where we were to meet them. Despite several sightings by local people unused to the sight of 15 people walking with huge backpacks, it was like searching for a needle in a haystack. The group were nowhere to be found. Needing a roof over our heads and shortly before dusk, we headed to Changuena with hope in our hearts that Alpha 1 had pushed on further than expected. Sadly it was not to be. We kipped on the floor in the community centre and finally received news that Alpha 1 had contacted Field Base, had a new grid reference 1km north east of Vueltas. They were learning Salsa and playing table football with the locals!
So, at first-light, we descended the steep and windy road we’d climbed the night before (with the most incredible views), and hastily delivered our food drop as they marched off into the morning, singing in unison. They’ve become a lean and well oiled machine – one of the trek leaders (Nick) is ex Royal Marines, and it’s catching!
Although it was tempting to stay longer, we had to respond to the rumbling tummies of Alpha 1 on the Corcovado Trek. With their food drop safely in the back of Bravo 1, we headed to Clavera where we were to meet them. Despite several sightings by local people unused to the sight of 15 people walking with huge backpacks, it was like searching for a needle in a haystack. The group were nowhere to be found. Needing a roof over our heads and shortly before dusk, we headed to Changuena with hope in our hearts that Alpha 1 had pushed on further than expected. Sadly it was not to be. We kipped on the floor in the community centre and finally received news that Alpha 1 had contacted Field Base, had a new grid reference 1km north east of Vueltas. They were learning Salsa and playing table football with the locals!
So, at first-light, we descended the steep and windy road we’d climbed the night before (with the most incredible views), and hastily delivered our food drop as they marched off into the morning, singing in unison. They’ve become a lean and well oiled machine – one of the trek leaders (Nick) is ex Royal Marines, and it’s catching!
Sad to have had such little time with Alpha 1 but thrilled by their high spirits, we headed south via Cuidad Neilly to the border town of Paso Canoas. Here we docked the good ship Bravo and wandered across the Panama border carrying shovels, 15m of transparent plastic piping (to be used as an indigenous method of spirit-levelling) and copious amounts of bleach – claiming to be tourists! Recognition of our Raleigh t-shirts halted the bag searches that were in progress, suddenly we were ‘muy importante’ and without further ado we were whisked into the arms of Jose, the guide from Conte Burika who had come to ensure we successfully negotiated the hike into join Alpha 9 the following day.
The Conte Burika reserve is incredibly remote and accessible either by an undulating 5/6 hour hike from Puerto Armuelles in Panama, or a 4/5 hour hike along the beach from Punta Banco in Costa Rica – we took the Panama route in and the Costa Rica route out.
The long hike in was worth every bead of sweat - the village of Carona is like something out of Lord of the Rings, nestled high up in misty hills far from prying eyes. We experienced the most amazing welcome and were awestruck by the way in which Alpha 9 had assimilated with the local community. Reciprocal learning is key and Raleigh really are playing a part in helping this Guaymis community move towards realising their aspirations. The pre-school is well under way and already a real source of community pride. Alpha 9 are being well fed by the community cooks (lots of beans and rice) and they’re keeping fit as John, one of the Project Managers, has them doing circuits most days. Having recently rowed across the Atlantic to raise money for the building of the school in Conte Burika, he’s well placed to lay down the law!
Following the hike out of Conte Burika and a much needed restful night in Punta Banco, we headed back to Paso Canoas to officially re-enter Costa Rica and pick up Bravo 1. During the long drive back to base we reflected on our epic trip and concluded that this expedition is challenging, fun, inspiring and so incredibly worthwhile for participants and staff alike. Watch this space for the next instalment.
Hi John (alpha 1)
ReplyDeleteJust figured out how the blog works and so thought I would send you a quick message!! hope you are ok and surviving the trip, I know its tough but remember that "even the bad days will be over too quick!!"
Everyone sends their love- I saw Leanne yesterday and she is missing you, the Woody is very quiet without you!!
Keep up the good work, we are very proud of you.
Be in touch soon
Jaine and gang