Zulu Eight: El Cebollal Environmental project

Picture Nicaragua: you're probably imaginging a landscape that is somewhat sun-scorched and samey - a world of gentle amber sunsets, dusty villages with perhaps the odd conical volcano smolderingly lazily in the background. But our Phase Three newbie environmental project might just change your mind...

Deep in the Miraflor wildlife reserve, a few kilometers from our sister projects in El Terrero and Las Palmas, the laid-back village of El Cebollal is about as Nicaraguan as it gets. A handful of simple homes radiate out from the main 'square' - a patch of earth where chickens roam, school children congregate beside a cheerful painted classroom and people meet to catch up on the latest local news. Just a few steps from this social centre, a neat path leads into our fledgling project...

A pristine pocket of cloudforest next to the village is home to incredible variety of birdlife, an extensive menagerie of orchids and hundreds of different plants and animals. A rudimentary 2km trail already circumnavigates this protected area but is much in need of improvement - rickety bridges crossing the steams need replacing, overgrown paths need clearing and there's a spot of gardening to be done to create a nursery for the orchids. With better access and facilities, the community can encourage visitors to come and experience a slice of real rural life, offering homestays in the village and learning about this rich ecosystem.

And that's not all: this protected square kilometer is fringed with coffee plants bearing delicate white flowers - many of the region's rural population make a living from farming this caffiene crop and the community have constructed a coffee musuem/education centre on the edge of the reserve. Here, visitors can come and learn how the punchy potion that gets us all through the day makes the journey from field to frappacino.

Coffee culture at El Cebollal

Get a taste for the good stuff at El Cebollal's coffee laboratory

Now, in addition to the wildlife reserve and coffee centre, the Zulu Eight group will also be getting involved in village life. Back in 09G, Raleigh constructed a community centre in the heart of this village - our returning team will be helping the locals to plaster and paint the building which takes pride of place in the village square.

Country Programme Manager Ross surveys the worksite on a recent project planning visit

Yesterday morning, our Zulu Eight project reporter Helen Nuttal gave us the low-down on the progress to date in El Cebollal:

After an epic two-day bus journey involving a TransNica bus and two rickety old American school buses, Zulu Eight finally arrived in a very cold and soggy El Cebollal. Luckily, we were speedily ushered to our respective homestays within the community and warmed up with a heartening meal of delicious rice and beans, plus assorted tasty extra bits - what a treat after two phases of Raleigh rations!

The next morning work began on the sendero (path) and the sun decided to show its face. We cleared the path of foliage and began the arduous task of carrying rubble sacks full of gravel aong our freshly cleared path. Suru competed with the local men in a game of 'who-can-carry-the-heaviest-sack', and we think she won overall. Luckily for us, a welcome break was provided that afternoon by a local theatre company who put on a performance based around water conservation, told through the medium of circus tricks.

We slogged through another day of gravelling on the Friday, gradually progressing further around the circular path before an evening of cultural entertainment. We were joined at mine and Katherine's (rather palatial) homestay - Finca Fuente de Vida - by a group of excitable Nicaraguan visitors on a ecotourism exchange. That night, we enjoyed traditional Nicaraguan music and were dragged onto the dancefloor to attempt to learn some folk dancing. Katherine in particular seemed to have quite an admirer and was chosen for a special solo dance with one of the cowboys...

Settling into village life, Zulu Eight have also turned their hands to tortilla-making, milking cows, bonding with their families and emptying pig swill. Lovely! Even the pulparia (local shop) owner has changed her opening hours to accommoate our break times, and we have certainly boosted her business as our days end with a snack and a review in the shop porch!

Although we have spent most of our time working, we have also managed to squeeze in a day trip to Esteli, the local town, where we braved the extremely cramped school bus yet again. Here we visited a Feria (festival) dedicated to Miraflor's ecotourism, as well as a trip to the Martyrs and Heros museum to brush up our Nicaraguan history. 

All in all, Zulu Eight have made real progress on the path here at El Cebollal, which is already nearing completion. And we've also had a truely amazing time exploring Miraflor and it's communities. We've been spoilt with welcoming accommodation, tasty food, lovely locals, fresh weather and stunning landscapes. The place is bustling with visitors as Semena Santa (Easter week) arrives, which is very gratifying as ecotourism obviously provides much-needed income and benefit to this small, remote Nicaraguan community.

Photographer Ali visited Zulu Eight earlier this week, and is now heading back to Fieldbase with Bravo One with a selection of hot shots. Check back next week for a photo essay on our Nicarguan projects.