Alpha Romeo 2-clean but smelling of eggs!

Words: Sylvie Myers

Part One

Eight days ago; Mari, Chich, Stijn, Yuri, Mel, Roberto, Alexia, Harm, Cat, Hannah, Sophie, Chema, Byran and Sylvie (me) were assigned to the Guanacaste Trek and became Alpha Romeo 2.

The next day we were dropped off in a nice air conditioned bus into the baking hot heat and blazing sunshine of Rio Canamazo, along with 15 very heavy backpacks! That afternoon we dragged ourselves through dry woodlands and farms to the porch of a local church in Angeles where we spent our first night. Since then our route has taken us through Alto Cebadilla, Santa Elena, Arenal Viejo, Tronodora, Cerro Montecristo, El Jilguero and finally to El Pilon in Tenorio National Park.

We have walked along gravel roads, through hilltop farmlands with stunning views of the Gulf of Nicaragua, and along muddy roads studded with horse and cow hoof-prints through patches of tropic forest. One night we camped on a ridge overlooking Volcan Arenal and Lake Arenal, then dropped down to walk along the lakeside the following day.

We were nearly blown off Cerro Montecristo whilst walking amongst the wind turbines! The past two days have been along treacherously steep and muddy trails through jungle guided by the legendary Don Luz. Lichens grow on every surface, vines hang from above and ferns struggle for ground space with glossy broad-leaved shrubs. Today in Tenorio National Park we passed a beautiful waterfall and a river coloured turquoise by the geothermal activity.

We sleep in tents, churches, community centres or rangers stations. If we’re lucky there will be a tap or stream where we fill a bowl to wash in, or even cold showers sometimes, but we all still smell so bad!

We cook porridge for breakfast and pasta, rice, mash or lentils for dinner on trangias. Lunch is pureed refried beans from a pouch, cold tins of pork and beans (that don’t actually contain any pork) or tuna. So far the weather has been incredible (touch wood), with the only rain coming at night when we were safely inside a community centre. Almost half the trek finished. I’m sure there will be plenty more challenges and highlights ahead!

Until next time…

Part Two 

Hello again from Alpha Romeo 2! Since I last wrote we have walked from Tenorio National Park to Bijagua, Zapote, Finca Armenia, San Isidro, Colonia Blanca and finally Rincon Lodge by Rincon de la Vieja. Unfortunately, we are very sad to have lost both Jakyha and Chich from the trek [don't worry everyone, they're both ok].

Today we walked to a beautiful waterfall with only daypacks, since Volcan Rincon de la Vieja couldn’t be climbed due to high winds. The last few days have mainly been along nice trails through woodlands humming with the sound of giant cicadas.  Yesterday we stopped for lunch at natural hot springs that left us all smelling strongly of sulphur, aka rotten eggs. Sitting in warm water was a treat despite the smell: most of us haven’t seen hot water for five weeks!

We also had a day on which Project Managers Mel and Roberto left us to our own devices. We woke on Sunday to find that they had slipped out during the night leaving us to find our own way. There was a bit of disbelief and indignation at first, especially as much of the map for the day was blank and just said ‘clouds,' but everything turned out fine and Hannah (who was day leader) got us to San Isidro without an incident.

We’re all getting used to waking at 3am in order to be on the road by 5am. But this morning we got a lie-in until 5am, which was great. Only five days left until we reach the beach! Over and Out.